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Let me make one thing perfectly clear before I tell you the story behind this photo. I am not in any way a wildlife photographer (unless you classify people as wildlife). I don’t have the patience nor, quite frankly, the passion. But this bird is different and the shot comes under the heading of capturing the heritage and culture of Bhutan. So, read on…..
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The story behind the photo
The rare bird in question is the black-necked crane (grus nigricollis for you biological purist types, which translates from the Latin to, believe it or not, “black-necked crane”). At last count there were somewhere between 8,800 and 11,000 individual birds extant. They are protected in China, India and Bhutan but the changing environment is not helping their cause. One of the locations where they winter (some 400 of them) is the Phobjikha Valley in Western Bhutan. There they are welcomed and revered – never disturbed by the locals. The birds are generally very nervous, but they seem to be able to distinguish between people in traditional local costume, with whom they can chill, and outsiders, whom they steer clear of.
One of the stops on my first trip to Bhutan in 2015 was Phobjikha Valley. I stayed in a local farmhouse for several days. I wanted to photograph this rare crane which is part of Buddhist literature and in whose honor there is a festival every year at the Gangtey Monastery in Phobjikha. It has been noted that when the birds arrive in winter, and again when they leave in the spring for northern climes, the entire flock circles the monastery, often three times, to signal its arrival and departure, and perhaps to show its appreciation for the welcome and the kind treatment it receives in the valley.
I was there in winter. It is very cold. And I found the valley to be very beautiful though somewhat stark. The entire experience of staying with a local farmer and his wife, sharing their kitchen floor for meals and a small piece of their lives with them, was unforgettable.
The photos which follow show the valley, the farmhouse at which I stayed, including the farmer and his wife and their grandson along with my guide. Also the field behind their house which, to my delight, was full of cranes when we arrived. (The photos are best viewed as a slideshow, one image at a time, as you will see the full picture.)[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_media_grid element_width=”6″ grid_id=”vc_gid:1546871146530-3395faab-3ea6-4″ include=”35417,35416,35413,35422″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]I believe it was on my third morning there, that I got up before dawn and wandered down the road, hoping to get some great shots of the black-necked cranes in flight. I did find some cranes in flight but they were in amongst the houses and really too far away to get good photos.
Along the way, I picked up a few local dogs who were so happy for the early morning human companionship that they sort of tagged along as a pack. My new friends. I think they were very proud to have recruited me.
So we (dogs and I) came to a field where there were numerous black-necked cranes busy with their breakfast. This was great! But they were not about to fly. Now you have to understand something: no self-respecting denizen of Phobjikha Valley would dream of disturbing, chasing, alarming the black-necked cranes. They are not sacred but they are revered and treated with the utmost respect. So I was in a quandary. I was not going to go into the field shouting and flapping my arms to get them into flight. But I wanted them in flight!
Much to my outward horror (and inward delight) my new found friends, who did not suffer from any of the restrictions and good manners of their human compatriots, simply charged into the field at full speed barking and generally getting very excited about the cranes. I assure you that I did not instigate this misbehavior in any way. But I did take advantage of it! As the cranes took to the sky I was able to capture a number of photos including the main one of this post which to me is the best.
Of course I scolded the dogs vehemently for their unseemly behavior, but they probably detected a twinkle in my eye as they stood there proudly panting and ignoring my invective.
The cranes did not suffer beyond perhaps some minor indigestion. And they have been rewarded by being immortalized in my blog and will soon become part of my book, Bhutan: Land of Happiness, currently under construction. I hope you will agree it was worth the indignity. The following photos show the before and after of the scene. I have left out all photos of the dogs for fear of reprisals. And after all, we were all in it together.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_media_grid element_width=”6″ grid_id=”vc_gid:1546871146541-ab4adf29-2da4-5″ include=”35415,35414,35419,35423,35412,35421″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]The photo below is my favorite. I love the under side of the fully extended wing.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_single_image image=”35418″ img_size=”full” alignment=”center” onclick=”img_link_large”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]If you would like a copy of the print (or any print here or on my website in general),all are available for sale in my shop here (archival paper, canvas or metal).
I am always keen to hear from you. You can contact me any time with questions or feedback.
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Right after you mentioned your quandry about the cranes not flying, I immediately thought the dogs! It’s just the sort of thing Charlee does when she sees birds, ducks and squirrels – give chase. I’m surprised you got shots of them on the ground, presumably before they got chased?
Lovely story and photos. 😊
Hi Cath. Well, next time I go to Bhutan Charlee is coming with me!! Yes, the cranes were peacefully breakfasting when the dogs charged. No harm done. It was all pretty mild and in good fun.
Good story! Like you, I would never disturb birds (any birds) in the wild. However, this respect does not extend to NYC — or Venice — pigeons. 😊
Thanks Alexa. Yes!! Those pigeons!!!
I knew the dogs would help you in some way. lol I would not disturb the birds either, but good thing the dogs can. hahaha
These birds are beautiful!!! And the shots are amazing!
The house looked really cozy and the people really nice!
The place is very beautiful. I’d like to have seen the doggies. lol
Thanks Caroline. I promised them not to reveal their misdemeanors 🙂
What a wonderful and wonderfully written and photographed story, David! You brought it all to life with humor and compassion. Thank you for sharing this special experience for us and for caring about the culture of Bhutan.
Thank you very much! There is a lot to share…
LYL
Thank you for sharing with us this delightful adventure and a small excursion into the local culture of the small kingdom! Your sense of humor, accompanied with engaging writing style and masterful photos making the whole experience very pleasant. I would love to see the dogs :-)))
Hi Anna. You are most welcome. Thank you for taking the time to read it and leave a comment. Makes it worthwhile! I am sure the dogs would like to see you too!! 🙂
Beautifully told and photographed! I would love to hear more stories from Bhutan. Thank you for sharing, David.
Thanks a lot Suz. That reminds me. I’m well overdue on the next blog post. I’ll do another on Bhutan. Hope all is well with you.